Shanghai

Practical Tips

  • Maglev/Metro Line 2 is often the fastest way to/from the (Pudong/PVG) airport, at least during rush hour

    • Maglev shaves off ~30 minutes compared to Metro Line 2 alone; transfer between them at Longyang station...you basically just cross the street to move between the Metro and Maglev

    • If you take Metro Line 2 all the way, you'll still have to transfer at Guanglan Road (it's all Line 2 but there aren't any trains that go all the way from Pudong airport to downtown Shanghai)

  • Taxis are also good for getting around but not during rush hour...most do not speak much English so have the Chinese address of your hotel, etc. written out

  • If you'll be riding the metro a lot, consider getting a Shanghai Public Transport Card; just look for the signs in any metro station, pay them ¥20 deposit plus whatever you want to load on (it's much more convenient than buying single-use tickets)

  • Good sources for info:

Things to See

  • People’s Park/Square (Rénmín Gōngyuán 人民公园 / Rénmín Guǎngchǎng 人民广场): the central transportation hub and home to government buildings; see the view from the Tomorrow Center tower(the Marriott’s lobby), “marriage market” on weekend mornings, Shanghai Museum (beautiful old pottery/brass/painting/etc.), optionally Urban Planning Museum (cool scale model of Shanghai)

  • Bund (Wài Tān, 外滩): the old colonial district, with lots of old buildings and a great view of the river (and the skyscrapers of Pudong); also stroll down pedestrian East Nanjing Road (Nánjīng Dōng Lù, 南京 东路) to see the garish neon and crowds

  • Pudong/Lujiazui (Pǔdōng 浦东 / Lùjiāzuǐ 陆家嘴): the "new" part of Shanghai that sprung up after the 90s, feels a bit like Las Vegas (lots of skyscrapers and fancy malls; the movie Her was filmed here); visit lobbies of hotels (e.g. Park Hilton in Shanghai World Financial Center) for nice view, Shanghai History Museum in Oriental Pearl Tower?

  • Xintiandi (Xīntiāndì, 新天地): district with old houses turned into a sort of outdoor mall; see the Shikumen Open House Museum (open most days 11-11) for an example of 19th-century Shanghai living

  • French Concession: area that used to be run by the French, so the architecture is a mixture between French and Chinese

    • Tianzifang (Tiánzǐfāng, 田子坊): similar to Xitiandi but more "authentic"?

  • Old City (Nánshì 南市) - the oldest, formerly walled part of Shanghai; large sections of it have been rebuilt, though, so it doesn't all have the same feel

    • Yùyuán (豫园) Gardens and Bazaar - large garden and temple, very crowded on the weekends; admission costs about ¥40. Near Line 10's Yuyuan Garden Station. The adjacent Yuyuan Tourist Mart (or Bazaar) is toursity and tacky but fun

      • Mid-Lake Pavilion Teahouse (Húxīntíng, 湖心亭) is one of the most famous teahouses in China, and thus somewhat expensive but a nice break from the crowds

    • City God Temple (Chénghuáng Miào, 城隍庙) - large Taoist temple complex and area near Yuyuan

    • Old Road (Lǎo Jiē, 老街) - near Yuyuan, interesting shops and teahouses, also known as Middle Fangbang Road

    • Dajing Tower - one of the last surviving parts of the Old City Wall, on the West side of the Old City

  • Jing'an District - West of the Bund and People's Park, this area is mostly residential but features the splendid Jing'an Temple (Jìng'ān Sì, 静安寺, which is reconstructed from a much older temple that was on the spot; it's weird seeing it surrounded by skyscrapers!)

  • Shanghai University of Traditional Chinese Medicine (上海中医药大学 = "Shànghǎi zhōng yīyào dàxué")

    • One of the largest and most prestigious TCM universities, also runs a museum (Shanghai Museum of TCM, 上海中医药博物馆 = "Shànghǎi zhōng yīyào bówùguǎn")

    • Museum appears to be open Tues - Sun 9-4

    • Phone: (+86) 021-51322710/61322712/51322721

    • closest metro: Zhangjiang High Technology Park (~20 min walk south of metro station, then turn left on Cailun road)

    • Full Address: 1200 Cailun Road, Zhangjiang Hi-Tech Park, Pudong New Area, Shanghai (上海市浦东新区张江高科技园区蔡伦路1200号 = "Shànghǎi shì pǔdōng xīnqū zhāngjiāng gāo kējì yuánqū càilún lù 1200 hào")

  • Tours

  • Time Out has a cheeky article that explains how most of the above attractions are over-crowded and over-rated

  • Also see Day Trips, below

Places to Eat

Recommended places, listed by neighborhood (*** = I tried it and highly recommend it, ### = would like to try at some point)

  • Xintiandi

  • Tianzifang

    • Origin House 39, Lane 155 JianGuo C. Rd, near RuiJin Rd (建国中路155弄39号,近瑞金路) gelato → sounds really good, they take it seriously with fresh ingredients, etc: www.originsh.com

    • Jian Guo 328 - 328 West Jianguo Rd (建国西路328号), a bit W of Tianzifang but great Shanghainese classics at reasonable prices; we had some outstanding yellowfish with scallions in 2015; rec'dLonely Planet

  • South Shaanxi / French Concession

  • People’s Square

    • ***Jia Jia Tang Bao 佳家汤包 (Jiājiā), 90 Huanghe Rd (Huánghé Lù), North of People’s Park, dumplings (Xiao Long Bao), tiny hole-in-the-wall...they sell out relatively early of their cheaper dumplings (e.g. pork)

    • ***Yang's Fried Dumplings (right across the street from Jia Jia Tang Bao), order on the left, pick up on the right, other branches elsewhere, see this for more details: www.sugarednspiced.com/yangs- fried-dumplings/

    • Xinguang Jiu Jia, 512 Tianjin Lu, near Guangxi Bei Lu (天津路512号, 近广西北路) 6322 3978, ¥400 minimum per person, big banquets of pre-picked Hairy Crab meals

    • Lao Zhengxing - 556 Fuzhou Rd (just E of people’s square), +86 21 6322 2624, www.laozhengxing-sh.com, seafood, red sauce, 8 treasures rice

    • Shanghai Uncle - 222 Yan'an Dong Lu 延安东路222号 (E of People’s Square), 6339-1977 [also a branch far W in Tianyaoqiao Lu], somewhat fusion-y Shanghai + western, great service, long menu,Lonely Planet says “what Shànghǎi is all about: brash, bustling and just a little tacky”; smart shanghai rec's the spare ribs

    • north of East Nanjing Road, Lonely Planet says Hóngyī Plaza has good options, including Hunan specialist South Memory (6th floor)

    • Yúxìn Chuāncài - 5th fl, Huasheng Tower, 399 Jiujiang Rd (九江路399号华盛大厦5楼), also near East Nanjing Road), 6361 1777, Sìchuān [also one in Pudong near Century Avenue metro], Smart Shanghai says “by far the best Sichuan restaurant in Shanghai” and rec’s the rice “jelly”, tea-smoked duck, and 2-pepper rabbit, also rec'd Lonely Planet...we went there in 2014 and enjoyed it

    • Nina's Sichuan House - 720 East Nanjing Rd, 5th floor, funny English translation of menu, rec'd Lonely Planet

    • Lost Heaven - Yúnnán/Southwestern Chinese/Burmese specialties, rec'd Lonely Planet

    • Nina’s Sichuan House - Sìchuān

    • Shanghai Xiao Nan Guo (aka Shanghai Min) 上海正大店(上海小南国）→ 陆家嘴西路168号正大广场9楼 [lùjiāzuǐ xī lù 168 hào zhèngdà guǎngchǎng 9 lóu] also one in Pudong in Superbrand mall http://travel.cnn.com/shanghai/eat/xiao-nan-guo-pudong-branch-758969 Corporate website: www.xnggroup.com → hong shao rou, crab meat, sauteed shrimp...we went here with the team in 2014, nice private room although food was a bit ho-hum

      • Also a Shanghai Min in Xintiandi South Block (next to Din Tai Fung)

    • Yuan Yuan 4/F, Westgate Mall, 1038 Nanjing Xi Lu, near Jiangning Lu (南京西路1038号, 梅龙镇广场4楼, 近江宁路) near W Nanjing Road → rec’d by various places (including Shanghai office, Time Out, CH, etc.) for Shanghai cuisine, especially hong shao rou, although Smart Shanghai says dishes other than hong shao rou are less exciting; good photos here: www.sugarednspiced.com/yuan- yuan/

    • Hai di Lao 5th Floor, 830 Nanjing Dong Lu, near Xizhang Zhong Lu (南京东路830号第一百货5楼, 近西藏中路) open 24 hours! 021-63617188, 63617189 → near People’s Square

    • Xià Xiǎo Guǎn (夏小馆) -

    • [Gelatomio Lounge Gelato - Unit 207, Second Floor, Infiniti Plaza, 138 Huaihai Zhong Lu, Time Out rec’s this gelato place just S of People’s Square]

  • Bund

    • Lvya (Lǜyǎ Jiǔjiā) 绿雅酒家 : 372 Jiangxi Middle Rd Huangpu, (21) 6321 9081 → near Bund, not much written up about it but is cheap/authentic place

    • Wujie/Bund22 (formerly Dashu Wujie) - vegetarian restaurant, rec'd TimeOut

  • Old City

    • Nánxiáng Steamed Bun - one of the most famous places for Xiaolongbao (soup dumplings), although many say it's over-rated

    • Lu Bo Lang - 131 Yuyuan Road, rec'd Peter Chen

  • Jing'an/West Nanjing Rd

  • Pudong

    • ***Din Tai Fung - in Shanghai World Financial Center (also one in Superbrand mall), recommended for great dumplings but Googlers are sick of eating there for team dinners

    • ***Chūn Zài (春在) - contemporary Shanghainese cuisine, 182 Fucheng Lu, Pudong Xinqu, near Huayuanshiqiao Lu (富城路182号, 近花园石桥路), rec'd SmartShanghai (great photos here), Dianping listing. Good food but not recommended for groups >8 people.

    • **Lang Yifang Restaurant (廊亦舫酒楼, Láng Yìfǎng Jiǔlóu) at 168 Lujiazui West Rd - 5th floor of Superbrand mall, rec’d for hairy crab, Shanghainese "benbang" homestyle cuisine...we went there in August 2015 and it was pretty good. (Good for large groups, also nice view.)

    • Eileen - in Shanghai World Financial Center, "modern" Shanghainese food and a hip bar...they add a bit of "fusion" to some dishes (e.g. Shanghai lion's head meatballs with foie gras) that doesn't quite work, but it's not a bad spot.

    • Paradise Dynasty - in IFC mall, Singapore chain known for its multi-colored xiaolongbao, rec'd by Time Out and City Weekend

    • South Beauty - in Superbrand mall, spicy food from Chóngqìng, Chéngdū and southern China, rec’d by Lonely Planet....some warn that it’s a bit sweetened compared to “real” southern food (to please the Shanghai palate); good for groups

    • Zhang Sheng Ji (Superbrand, contemporary chinese)

    • Xinjishi (New Jishi/Jesse) - 2/F Zhong Guo Mansion, 166 Lujiazui Dong Lu, near Yingcheng Lu (浦东陆家嘴东路166号, 中国保险大厦2楼, 近影城路) 6841 9719, www.xinjishi.com → very close!www.smartshanghai.com/venue/5960/Xinjishi_Pudong (across Century Ave from 4 Seasons) → only open for lunch???

    • Xià Xiǎo Guǎn (夏小馆) - Superbrand mall 5th floor, "creative cuisine"?

    • Yong Yi Ting - in Mandarin Oriental Hotel Pudong at 111 Pudong Road South, Time Out rec's for regional (Jiang Nan, 江南, Jiāngnán) cuisine g

    • Fulinxuan (富临轩, fù lín xuān) - 168 Lujiazui W Rd, in Superbrand Mall, Cantonese and dim sum, rec'd Time Out

    • Hai di Lao (海底捞火锅) - 6/F, 588 Zhangyang Lu, near Nanquan Bei Lu, (张杨路588号百脑汇6楼, 近南泉北路), 3871 3937 → 25 min walk from office, S of Dongchang Road metro ...more locations see www.haidilao.com/index.php?m=content&c=index&a=lists&catid=106 or www.smartshanghai.com/listings/?tag=hai_di_lao

    • Qianxiangge (Qián Xiāng Gé, 黔香阁) - 171 Pucheng Lu (浦东新区 浦城路171号), Guizhou (Southwestern) cuisine, another location is quite a ways west (on 525 Hongzhong Lu), rec'd Time Out,Smart Shanghai, see this blog for photos

    • a ways south: Bāguó Bùyī - Lonely Planet says "[p]retty much the most authentic Sìchuān food in town"

    • [Fresh Gelato 圣久代 (Shèng Jiǔdài) → in IFC Mall, LG2 (basement #2), review: www.shanghaigirleats.com/shanghai-fresh-gelato/ → in City Super, we went there and there's nothing to write home about]

  • Other lists/resources

Day Trips Outside Shanghai

Shanghai is conveniently within 1-2 hours of many smaller towns that give you more of the feel of "old China".

  • Suzhou - famous garden city

    • we went here in 2015; it's fast to get there via train (~half hour versus at least 1.5 hours by taxi, but way more with traffic...it took us ~3 hours to get home by taxi!), but buying a train ticket is a pain (you have to wait in lots of lines and show your passport)

    • we were somewhat underwhelmed at the gardens/temples (the Humble Administrator's Garden was big but crowded), but we really enjoyed walking along the canals, e.g. along Pingjiang Road

  • Hangzhou - famous for West Lake, Lingyin National Temple and local cuisine. ¥400-500 by cab or ¥50 by train

  • Qībǎo - closest, easy to reach (on metro)

  • Shé Shān -

  • Zhouzhuang -

  • Tongli -

  • Wuzhen -

  • Buddhist island of Putuo Shan -

  • Zhujiajiao - "pearl stream" water town with bridges

  • Xitang - a town where we went, about ~1.5 hours south, lots of pretty bridges/temples but very crowded

  • Qibao - [lukewarm reviews on TripAdvisor]

  • Zhouzhuang - ancient town with old-style houses, shops, tea houses, lake food & crab restaurants with river along path, ¥200-250 by cab

  • Some reviews of water towns: